Urban Wedding Divas

The Truth about Mineral Makeup
By Katie Astoria, owner Modern Muse Makeup Artistry

Mineral makeup is one of the fastest-growing trends in cosmetics these days, and if you have ever watched TV infomercials at 3am then you have very likely been subject to the tagline that mineral makeup is “so pure you can wear it to sleep in.” But is it really worth the hype?

Mineral makeup is, simply speaking, a powder-based foundation made from a combination of minerals like zinc, titanium dioxide, and mica. Many mineral makeup companies claim that their products are non-irritating, non-reactive, and nourishing to the skin. They also may claim that the makeup is 100% natural, suggesting to consumers that it’s “good for you” and can’t harm you, make you break out, or give you an allergic reaction. I’m going to attempt to debunk some of these lofty claims:

#1. “Natural” isn’t always what you think it means. True, mineral makeup formulas are generally stripped of a lot of the synthetic ingredients in some types of makeup, but that doesn’t mean that the ingredients are all 100% natural. There isn’t a makeup brand out there that is as pure or all-natural as it is advertised. Many of the “all natural” ingredients are actually ingredients that are synthetically processed together, but are still billed as all natural. Bismuth oxychloride, for example, is one of the main filler ingredients in most mineral makeup (and what gives a lot of them that pearlescent glow on the skin), but doesn’t occur in nature. It’s a combination of naturally occurring minerals that are synthetically bound together, and then sold under the label as a natural ingredient.

Furthermore, just because something is all-natural doesn’t mean it’s good for you. Poison ivy is all natural, right? Would you go spreading that all over your skin? No? I didn’t think so. Also, all-natural doesn’t mean you can’t have a reaction to it. Anyone can be allergic to anything, even the ingredients in mineral makeup that most companies would like you to believe are completely innocuous.

#2. The claim that mineral makeup is nourishing or good for problem skin or aging is also misleading. From a makeup artist’s perspective, problem skin and aging skin may actually be the worst candidate for mineral makeup for several reasons. First of all, the fact that it is a powder base tends to be drying on the skin rather than nourishing. That means that older skin (which has lost the youthful moisture and elasticity it once had) will often cause the mineral makeup to excessively collect in areas where fine lines or dry patches are present. Oily skin and acne prone skin may have just as much of a problem with mineral powders as well, as the powder can clump in areas of excess oil as well as anywhere there is a broken blemish or raw area of the skin. Lastly, mineral powders just don’t have the coverage level or staying power of liquid foundations. You can’t make blemish-prone skin or uneven skin tone completely flawless with just a thin layer of mineral powder. It would take a few layers to achieve a coverage level close to that of liquid, and unfortunately with the high content of titanium dioxide and bismuth oxychloride in most mineral foundations, this actually makes the foundation look cakey and heavy. All of this leads to uneven and unnatural looking coverage. And if the whole reason to buy mineral makeup is for the natural looking coverage, you can see that this totally blows that theory out of the water!

3. Mineral makeup brands that claim that they provide plenty of sun protection is totally false. The best kind of sunscreen is the kind that is in liquid form and soaks into the skin. That means the SPF of 15 that is in most mineral makeup is not adequate. The American Academy of Dermatology (ADA) warns that for foundation SPF to be effective, it would have to be re-applied every two hours to provide adequate coverage. Also, most dermatologists now recommend an SPF of 25-30 or higher for everyday, all day protection. So the best way to protect your skin from the sun regardless of the SPF in your makeup is to apply a liquid sunscreen like Mary Kay’s Day Solution, letting it soak in for about 15-20 minutes before applying any foundation.

Sleeping in makeup, no matter how pure the brand claims that it is, is NEVER a good idea. Ask any dermatologist and they will tell you that they would never recommend sleeping in your makeup under any circumstances. Your skin has microscopic dirt, grime, and bacteria that resides on it all day long. If you do not cleanse your face before bed, you are sleeping with all that gunge! This is one of the biggest causes of breakouts – bacteria that gets imbedded into your pores from sleeping with makeup still on. It has also been said that for every night you go to bed with makeup on, you age your skin by 21 days! And unless you are under the age of 21, I doubt you want to look older! So when it comes to mineral makeup (or any makeup at all), take it off before bed!

Even though we’ve seen that mineral makeup may not be everything the manufacturers claim that it is, there are some very good advantages to it. People who are great mineral makeup candidates are those with younger-looking combination skin that is relatively unblemished, who can wear the powder formulas without fear of clumping or sitting in fine lines. Women who just want a quick and very light coverage foundation also love mineral makeup, because it is easy to apply and doesn’t feel quite as heavy as some liquid foundations. Mineral makeup is a fantastic formula for a no-frills minimalist gal who just wants to give herself a slightly more even look to her face without going overboard or worrying about covering blemishes. From a special event and wedding makeup perspective, a couple of things to note about mineral makeup is that most formulas do not have the staying power that liquid foundation does (not so great for dancing your wedding night away!), and most also contain a high degree of luminescence, which can look oily in flash photography. A brand like Mary Kay’s Mineral Powder Foundation is a great answer to this problem because it is very light but very matte coverage, which is ideal for your professional photos.

If you’re still not sure about mineral makeup, try some samples! Most companies will let you sample the product before buying to be sure that it is right for you. Seek out a professional makeup artist or stylist who has experience with the product and can help you chose the right shade. Then just play with it! The more you experiment, the more you learn about what type of makeup will work for you.